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You’ve found it: the perfect neighborhood. It’s the exact place you always imagined you would raise your children and grow old with your spouse. A playground lies directly across the street from the property for sale, the elementary school is around the corner and the grocery store a mile away. You’ve met the neighbors and they’re kind and welcoming with kids around the same age as yours. Sound too good to be true? It is.
DIY might not be best
The problem is the house for sale is in bad repair. The former owners didn’t keep up on maintenance issues, nothing is up to date, and you dislike the floor plan. In this day and age when DIY projects (do-it-yourself) have become as ubiquitous as mowing your own lawn, it seems possible that you could buy the home with the intention of fixing it to your own specifications. The neighborhood is perfect, after all.
Every situation varies
However, Kirsten Craze of The Daily Telegraph warns this might not be the smartest or most financially sound decision. She said, "It is possible that demolish a house and rebuilding on the site may produce a more successful and cost-effective result than a cosmetic renovation." The decision of whether to demolish or remodel depends entirely on the situation.
Renovations more expensive than original construction
One example of how remodeling can be more expensive than demolishing comes from statistics released by the Australian Institute of Architects’ design and advisory service. They found that kitchen renovations average $10,000 to $31,000, bathrooms are $10,000 to $25,000, and laundry is $4,000 to $10,000. All of these prices are more than the actual original construction of these three homes tends to be. The actual costs for each of these rooms originally are, respectively, $7,650 to $28,600, $5,6000 to $18,400 and $4,000 to $8,000.
Remodeling can be more expensive because it takes more time and finesse to replace existing plasterwork, paint, plumbing, and electrical wiring. Seasoned architect Ian Agnew explained, "An old home that’s been poorly maintained will usually require extensive repair work such as rewiring, replumbing, and reroofing and the cost will inevitably eat into the renovation budget."
However, he did concede that older homes "often have generous sub-floor and roof spaces, higher ceilings, and larger rooms . . . making them feel bigger and providing more furnishing and storage space."
Interior Decorating and Remodeling News Brought to You by EZSnapCovers.com
The holiday season is approaching faster than expected, and the clock is ticking to get your home ready to host family gatherings. But cleaning isn’t the only thing you should be thinking about. With family members congregating in your home, this is also the perfect time to upgrade and liven up that space. Use a few of these easy upgrades for your home during the holidays to get you started.
With winter fast approaching, our baseboard heaters have become an essential part of our everyday comfort. However, despite how much we need them to keep us warm amidst frigid temperatures, they could become a hazard for younger family members. As such, you must take additional steps to childproof your baseboard heating systems to prevent a tragic accident from occurring.
Measure the height from the floor to the top of the metal wall plate.
Follow our guide for baseboard heater cover measurement:
Any baseboard larger than 7 3/8" (188 mm) will be compatible with our standard cover.
Any measurement greater than 9 3/8" (238 mm) will fit our tall cover.
Measure from the bottom of the finned tube heating element to the top of the metal wall plate,
A measurement of 5 1/2" to 6 3/4" (140 mm – 172 mm) will fit our standard cover.
A measurement of 7 1/2" to 8 3/4" (191 mm – 222 mm) will fit our tall cover.
Measure the distance from the wall or the metal wall plate attached to the wall, to the outside of the finned tube heating element.
Any measurement of less than 3 1/8" (76 mm) inches from the wall will fit our
Any measurement of less than 3 1/8" (76 mm) inches from the wall will fit our tall cover.
EZ Snap™ Wall Widgets are used when your old or existing wall back plate has been removed or if you have to hang your new cover 1 inch or higher to bring them up to a height that will fit our installation guidelines. Just measure your overall desired height, subtract 1", drill a hole, preferably in a stud and attach it to the wall with the included screw.
EZ Snap™ Floor Fidgets easily raise your new covers ¾ inch to compensate for any ¾ inch floor (wood, tile, or other) that has been installed any time since your baseboard heater was originally installed. May be used for any reason when the overall height has been shortened and the total height is less than 7-½ inches for standard height or 9-½ inches for the TALL height EZ Snap™ BaseBoard Covers. Just use the self-tapping screws to secure them to the top of your existing wallplate.
EZ Snap™ Wall Contraptions are used when your wall back plate has been completely removed. EZ Snap™ Wall Contraptions receives your EZ Snap™ BaseBoard Cover and keeps your aluminum fin tube from sagging. These completely replace your wall back plate. To install, slide up from the bottom and make sure the top is at your desired height. Screw to the wall, then bend the front finger up to hold the fin tube in place.
Measure from wall to wall and subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 2 flush to wall end caps.
Measure the overall length of the existing unit with ends attached then subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 2 Closed or Open-end caps.
Measure from the corner to the end of the unit with ends attached then subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 1 Closed or Open-end & 1 flush to wall end cap.
Measure the left side from corner A to corner B (see diagram). Then subtract 3 inches for the 90 degree inside corner, then subtract another ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) Repeat for the right side if also wall to wall. You need to subtract a total of 3½ inches from each side that is wall to wall. Choose your end caps.
Measure the left side from the corner of the wall to the end of the unit with ends caps. Then subtract 3 inches for the 90 degree inside corner, then subtract another ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) Repeat for the right side. You need to subtract a total of 3½ inches from both left and right sides. Choose your end caps.
L-Shaped outside radiators ending in the middle of the wall:
Measure from outside corner of the wall A to the end of the radiator unit with end caps attached B, then subtract ½" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Measure from outside corner of the wall to the corner of the wall, then subtract 1/2" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Left leg - measure from the corner out to the end of the radiator subtract 3" for the corner and ½ (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Center leg - measure from corner to corner and subtract 3" for each corner a total of 6"
Right leg - measure from the corner out to the end of the radiator subtract 3" for the corner and ½" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.).
We recommend that you order covers a little longer than normal and cut them on site, as there are many opportunities for mistakes in measuring and installation. By cutting on site you can fit and cut to fit. The covers can be cut with a good quality jigsaw and a fine metal cutting blade.
Now that you’ve learned how to measure baseboard heaters,
you’re ready to order.