Nearly a third of all professional remodeling projects are the result of a botched DIY remodel. Many homeowners emboldened by television shows that make it look easy undertake remodeling projects that are beyond their abilities. While the goal is to save money, this almost always results in the project costing even more since a pro is most likely going to end up coming in to fix the mistakes or simply start over. If you’re considering a DIY remodeling project, here are four questions you need to ask yourself first.
Am I allowed to do it?
This is a great question to start with and it’s usually a pretty easy one to answer. If the project you’re considering requires a license to do it, then you shouldn’t do it. This rules out plumbing and electrical work, as well as roofing work. It most likely includes any remodeling project that would involve changing the structure of your home. If a job requires a license it’s because it’s potentially dangerous for the untrained and it needs to be completed to a certain standard.
Do I have the tools and experience to do it safely?
Even if you are technically allowed to do a certain job without a license, that doesn’t mean you should. Many remodeling projects will require very specific tools and training to do it right. Trying to cut corners by not purchasing the necessary equipment or educating yourself is sure to result in failure.
How long will it take and am I fully committed to completing it?
Make sure you fully understand the scope of the project before you begin. If you go into the project with unrealistic expectations about how long it will take and how difficult it will be, you’ll grow frustrated quickly and most likely be forced to call in help partway through. If you fully understand the scope then you may decide to call in a pro from the start or you may decide to proceed but at least you’ll know what you’re getting yourself into.
What will be the total cost?
Homeowners have a tendency to estimate the lowest possible cost and go off of that. That’s a recipe for disaster. Remember to include the cost of any tools you might need for the project since many only include the cost of materials. Once you’ve got a realistic number, add another 15% for contingencies. Depending on what tools you need, it may be cheaper to just higher a pro who already has them.
If after answering these four questions, you decide the project isn’t of the DIY variety, you can select something that is. You can upgrade your light fixtures or swap out cabinet hardware. You can install baseboard radiator covers or repaint your bathroom. Whatever you do, just make sure it’s something within your abilities.
Source: Chattanoogan
1080 Bassett Rd Unit D
Westlake, OH 44145 USA
Phone:
866.740.0005
Fax:
888.717.9751
Email:
support@ezsnapcovers.com
© 2024 EZ Snap Covers.
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Measure the height from the floor to the top of the metal wall plate.
Follow our guide for baseboard heater cover measurement:
Any baseboard larger than 7 3/8" (188 mm) will be compatible with our standard cover.
Any measurement greater than 9 3/8" (238 mm) will fit our tall cover.
Measure from the bottom of the finned tube heating element to the top of the metal wall plate,
A measurement of 5 1/2" to 6 3/4" (140 mm – 172 mm) will fit our standard cover.
A measurement of 7 1/2" to 8 3/4" (191 mm – 222 mm) will fit our tall cover.
Measure the distance from the wall or the metal wall plate attached to the wall, to the outside of the finned tube heating element.
Any measurement of less than 3 1/8" (76 mm) inches from the wall will fit our
standard cover.
Any measurement of less than 3 1/8" (76 mm) inches from the wall will fit our tall cover.
EZ Snap™ Wall Widgets are used when your old or existing wall back plate has been removed or if you have to hang your new cover 1 inch or higher to bring them up to a height that will fit our installation guidelines. Just measure your overall desired height, subtract 1", drill a hole, preferably in a stud and attach it to the wall with the included screw.
EZ Snap™ Floor Fidgets easily raise your new covers ¾ inch to compensate for any ¾ inch floor (wood, tile, or other) that has been installed any time since your baseboard heater was originally installed. May be used for any reason when the overall height has been shortened and the total height is less than 7-½ inches for standard height or 9-½ inches for the TALL height EZ Snap™ BaseBoard Covers. Just use the self-tapping screws to secure them to the top of your existing wallplate.
EZ Snap™ Wall Contraptions are used when your wall back plate has been completely removed. EZ Snap™ Wall Contraptions receives your EZ Snap™ BaseBoard Cover and keeps your aluminum fin tube from sagging. These completely replace your wall back plate. To install, slide up from the bottom and make sure the top is at your desired height. Screw to the wall, then bend the front finger up to hold the fin tube in place.
Measure from wall to wall and subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 2 flush to wall end caps.
Measure the overall length of the existing unit with ends attached then subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 2 Closed or Open-end caps.
Measure from the corner to the end of the unit with ends attached then subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 1 Closed or Open-end & 1 flush to wall end cap.
Measure the left side from corner A to corner B (see diagram). Then subtract 3 inches for the 90 degree inside corner, then subtract another ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) Repeat for the right side if also wall to wall. You need to subtract a total of 3½ inches from each side that is wall to wall. Choose your end caps.
Measure the left side from the corner of the wall to the end of the unit with ends caps. Then subtract 3 inches for the 90 degree inside corner, then subtract another ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) Repeat for the right side. You need to subtract a total of 3½ inches from both left and right sides. Choose your end caps.
L-Shaped outside radiators ending in the middle of the wall:
Measure from outside corner of the wall A to the end of the radiator unit with end caps attached B, then subtract ½" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Measure from outside corner of the wall to the corner of the wall, then subtract 1/2" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Left leg - measure from the corner out to the end of the radiator subtract 3" for the corner and ½ (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Center leg - measure from corner to corner and subtract 3" for each corner a total of 6"
Right leg - measure from the corner out to the end of the radiator subtract 3" for the corner and ½" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.).
We recommend that you order covers a little longer than normal and cut them on site, as there are many opportunities for mistakes in measuring and installation. By cutting on site you can fit and cut to fit. The covers can be cut with a good quality jigsaw and a fine metal cutting blade.
Now that you’ve learned how to measure baseboard heaters,
you’re ready to order.