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You probably have a tough time sticking to a budget for your household, so sticking to it for your renovation will be even harder. Your total household budget is easier to stick to because you’ll just plain run out of money. For a renovation, it’s easy to rationalize a little bit more money here and there, a higher quality parquet floor, a slightly nicer refrigerator, a name brand paint, your dream couch, etc. Before you know it, you’ve totally blown your budget, used up your loan and savings, and the project is only half done.
Work backwards, budget first
Jane Eyles-Bennett, an interior designer, acknowledged these challenges, but added that there are ways to prevent these mistakes. One very important step in the renovation process that will help you out with this is making a plan detailing every change you plan on making during the renovation. Jane said, "It’s best to start with the budget in mind first-and then work backwards from there to figure out what you can actually do to your home within the amount of money allocated."
Make a wish list
Once you have your total amount of money available calculated, make a list of everything you would like to do. Don’t hold yourself back on the list-include everything from replacing the doorknob on the bathroom door to repainting the entire downstairs. Write down the idea even if you don’t think you could do it, otherwise the impossible ideas will get stuck in your head, preventing you from coming up with plausible ideas.
After you have your list, Jane said, "Put some ballpark price estimates next to each one. If you’re really not sure what things will cost, ring around, talk to friends and family, or look on the internet to get some indication." Don’t just guess at what the projects might cost.
With your list and costs on one hand and your budget on the other, you can get down to weeding out the impossible ideas from the doable ideas. Try rating them on a scale of most necessary to least necessary or urgent to least urgent. Then you can work your way through the list and get quotes from professionals so you have an even more definite idea of what the projects would cost.
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There are specific things to remember no matter how easy a project is. Use these tips on changing baseboard heater covers to make the process run more smoothly.
When the time comes to replace your rusted and outdated baseboard heater cover, it isn’t often clear where you should begin with the process. For some, this project may seem confusing and can lead them to push it off. Learn how to measure and cut a steel baseboard heater cover; it’s really not as hard as you might think!
Measure the height from the floor to the top of the metal wall plate.
Follow our guide for baseboard heater cover measurement:
Any baseboard larger than 7 3/8" (188 mm) will be compatible with our standard cover.
Any measurement greater than 9 3/8" (238 mm) will fit our tall cover.
Measure from the bottom of the finned tube heating element to the top of the metal wall plate,
A measurement of 5 1/2" to 6 3/4" (140 mm – 172 mm) will fit our standard cover.
A measurement of 7 1/2" to 8 3/4" (191 mm – 222 mm) will fit our tall cover.
Measure the distance from the wall or the metal wall plate attached to the wall, to the outside of the finned tube heating element.
Any measurement of less than 3 1/8" (76 mm) inches from the wall will fit our
Any measurement of less than 3 1/8" (76 mm) inches from the wall will fit our tall cover.
EZ Snap™ Wall Widgets are used when your old or existing wall back plate has been removed or if you have to hang your new cover 1 inch or higher to bring them up to a height that will fit our installation guidelines. Just measure your overall desired height, subtract 1", drill a hole, preferably in a stud and attach it to the wall with the included screw.
EZ Snap™ Floor Fidgets easily raise your new covers ¾ inch to compensate for any ¾ inch floor (wood, tile, or other) that has been installed any time since your baseboard heater was originally installed. May be used for any reason when the overall height has been shortened and the total height is less than 7-½ inches for standard height or 9-½ inches for the TALL height EZ Snap™ BaseBoard Covers. Just use the self-tapping screws to secure them to the top of your existing wallplate.
EZ Snap™ Wall Contraptions are used when your wall back plate has been completely removed. EZ Snap™ Wall Contraptions receives your EZ Snap™ BaseBoard Cover and keeps your aluminum fin tube from sagging. These completely replace your wall back plate. To install, slide up from the bottom and make sure the top is at your desired height. Screw to the wall, then bend the front finger up to hold the fin tube in place.
Measure from wall to wall and subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 2 flush to wall end caps.
Measure the overall length of the existing unit with ends attached then subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 2 Closed or Open-end caps.
Measure from the corner to the end of the unit with ends attached then subtract ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) The endcaps can be pulled or slid ½ inch outward on either end to fit your existing length requirements. Choose 1 Closed or Open-end & 1 flush to wall end cap.
Measure the left side from corner A to corner B (see diagram). Then subtract 3 inches for the 90 degree inside corner, then subtract another ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) Repeat for the right side if also wall to wall. You need to subtract a total of 3½ inches from each side that is wall to wall. Choose your end caps.
Measure the left side from the corner of the wall to the end of the unit with ends caps. Then subtract 3 inches for the 90 degree inside corner, then subtract another ½ inch (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.) Repeat for the right side. You need to subtract a total of 3½ inches from both left and right sides. Choose your end caps.
L-Shaped outside radiators ending in the middle of the wall:
Measure from outside corner of the wall A to the end of the radiator unit with end caps attached B, then subtract ½" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Measure from outside corner of the wall to the corner of the wall, then subtract 1/2" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Left leg - measure from the corner out to the end of the radiator subtract 3" for the corner and ½ (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.)
Center leg - measure from corner to corner and subtract 3" for each corner a total of 6"
Right leg - measure from the corner out to the end of the radiator subtract 3" for the corner and ½" (to allow for wiggle room when installing your new covers.).
We recommend that you order covers a little longer than normal and cut them on site, as there are many opportunities for mistakes in measuring and installation. By cutting on site you can fit and cut to fit. The covers can be cut with a good quality jigsaw and a fine metal cutting blade.
Now that you’ve learned how to measure baseboard heaters,
you’re ready to order.